Catching the wave

CATCHING THE WAVE

I like to live in my past. Cherish the wonderful moments I had when I was kid.

 My best was the time I spent catching waves. It was adventurous from the very first thing I need to, that is to sneak out from home. My Parents were not very fond of me going to beach everyday, so I need to get out and come back before they notice. I have been caught many times warned, punished But no one could stop me from getting what I want. More than anything else I learned to swim in the rough sea waves. But that came after lot of pain and struggle.

The first thing I had to do to start catching a real wave is to learn to swim. Started off in the river. Thanks to my cousins for helping me out. They were real patient to teach me.  Finally they made me to jump of our small dingy and asked me to swim to shore If I need to survive. Now I have no choice. I did swim but kept going down, get pulled up by my hair and made to swim again until I manage to swim and reach shore. After that I was on my own.

We (me and my fellow wave catchers) never had access to the standards surf boards. We had to use wooden planks and they were no long enough for us to stand on them and ride. We need to lay with our body on the top and catch the wave. 

Our first challenge was to catch the right wave. There are waves which gives you a good ride till the shore, some which are not that strong enough to carry you all the way, some rolled up quick.

 The second challenge was to time the jump to catch the wave. If the jump is not good enough to give you enough momentum to be on top the wave then you are gone.  If everything goes right, then you can be on the top of the wave, laugh at your luck, enjoy the ride until the wave carry and put you on the shore. Get up, carry you plank and back to sea to catch the next wave.

Now, if things go wrong (you catch the wrong wave or your timing is wrong) you are gone. Take a deep breath and close your eyes tight and submit yourself to the wave. It will crush you as it rolls over. You need to have some air in your lungs because you will not be coming up soon and it will sand all around you, keeping eyes open to see stuff around you is not a good idea. You will realize you are getting rolled over been pushed toward the shore. Your body will be stretched, bend and rolled until you crash land on the shore. You will realize there are small bruises on your body. But once again without any hesitation, not even giving an ear to other guys (who had a good ride) making fun of you, carry your plank and back to sea to catch the next wave, to be on top of the wave next time.

Fall down, get crushed but make sure you get up and try again. Never stop. Keep riding the wave.